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Preparation

I load my GPS with the 18 1:50 000 topo maps that cover the entire island and with 177 navigation points from Mapsource and Topo Canada software both from Garmin.  I then print the maps with navigation points with a scale of 1.5km/3cm.  It's precise enough to have a good idea of your location without having to look at the GPS constantly.  I also print another set of shoreline topo maps from the website: l’Atlas du Canada http://atlas.nrcan.gc.ca/site/francais/maps/topo/map.  This set shows the outline of the littoral plateau (''reef'') that forms a wide belt around the island.  I'll admit to having almost never consulted these.  It's also interesting to look at Google Maps (satellite) or Google Earth, where the littoral plateau is clearly visible.  Finally, I get the tide tables on the Web site www.marees.gc.ca/.

PHOTOS (100-2155/100-2163)

I arrive on the Nordik Express in Rimouski at 11h00 on Tuesday July 17^th 2007, departure is at 12h30.  Stop at Sept-Îles at midnight followed by a drinking session at bar Sept-Îles until 3h00.  I return with some difficulty on the ship at 4h15. 

Nordik Express – Port of Sept-Îles – 4h07

Bar Sept-Îles is a really horrible place, but it's a great way to fall asleep on the upper deck seats afterwards when your too cheap to pay for a bunk.  The boat leaves 2 hours late at 8h00, but I only wake up at 9h30 so I don’t realise it until the arrival on the island.  Arrival at Port Menier around 14h30, my boat is unloaded at 16h30. Once assembled and loaded it's already 18h30.  It's a late start and the tide is drooping but I want to camp tonight and I can't wait to start paddling.

PHOTOS (100-2164/100-2183) – Port Menier – Passed Pointe aux Ivrognes

DAY 1 Wednesday the 18-07-2007 departure 18h30 – arrival 19h50 – 4 Km

After 3 paddle strokes, the realisation that the kayak is as heavy as an aluminium skiff with a 25hp outboard motor hits me.  Not being a fan of dehydrated food, I opted for canned food.  Evidently there is a price to pay and I now realise it fully.  On the other hand, it's a real pleasure to eat vegetables, brie cheese, ham, meat sauce and fruit salads after 2 weeks of travelling.   After 20 minutes of small waves, the ''reef'' makes its debut.  The water is soupy with life: animal plankton, molluscs and the first 2 seals of the trip.  I have to go way out to have a little water under the boat.  I had planned to go to Anse-aux-Fraises where the "reef" seemed smaller on the maps but I clearly won't make it tonight, especially with the tide going out.  I get out a few hundred meters from shore and drag the kayak in a few inches of water until the beach.

First camping spot – A little ways passed Pointe aux Ivrognes – 19h49

A few kilometres from Port Menier and it's already another world.  The "reef" is slowly being exposed to the air, seals are vocalizing and mosquitoes are feasting on my blood.  Tomorrow high tide is at 4h07, the chances that I wake up early enough are zero.  I'm on vacation after all!

PHOTOS (100-2185/100-2268).-.Passed Pointe aux Ivrognes– Pointe Wickham

DAY 2 Thursday 19-07-2007 Wake-up 5h40 – departure 6h50 – arrival 19h15 – 41 Km

A superb morning on perfectly flat water.  There are numerous birds fishing, dozen upon dozens of seals and a nice cool temperature to top it all off.  Although the morning, the sky is progressively veiling itself.  I have to paddle a few kilometres out just to have a few inches of water under the hull on the outer edge of the ''reef'' where there is a small swell that's gently breaking.  While arriving at Pointe Ouest (the point that's the furthest west), I have to go around an immense spit of rock and gravel that protrudes a few kilometres from shore.  The new lighthouse is very well preserved and stands tall in the debris of its predecessor built in 1858¹ and laid to rest in 1961¹.  3 inuksuk of grand stature guard the point adding tradition to a scene sculpted by wind and storm.  There are 2 shipwrecks on the beach between the lighthouse of Pointe de l’Ouest and Pointe à la Goélette. 

Calou shipwrecked in 1982¹ furthest out, Tai Pei in front - Between Pointe de l’Ouest and Pointe à la Goélette – 10h31

After a quick meal and a mandatory shipwreck visit, I arrive at 12h30 in Bay Sainte-Claire established around 1865¹.  There again the bay is protected by an immense spit that protrudes at least 1Km out.    I visit the old catholic cemetery to the East of the bay.  The tombs lay witness to Spanish Flu and Cholera epidemics that killed many children at a very young age.¹ I also take a walk around the last 2 houses standing close to Malouin stream. 

1 of the 2 last remaining houses left standing – Baie Sainte-Claire – 12h56

Hunting is prohibited in this zone and I was told that if you’re lucky you can sometimes see hundreds of deer that come to graze here.  I only see one, the first of the trip.  The house furthest from shore is literally swarming with bees, I dare not get too close.  I leave the bay under deep grey skies that luckily will lighten trough the afternoon.  A little passed the Grand Ruisseau (Big Stream), I see a strange white/pink form on shore.  While approaching, I realise it's a dead whale.  Something horrible must have happened to it because in fact, it's a half dead whale.  The entire back end is missing.  I'm not able to get close as thousands of flies have elected it as a new home.  Throughout the day, seals have been trailing me and scare me periodically by splashing violently right behind the boat.  I arrive at Pointe-Wickham at 19h45 with a legion of mosquitoes waiting for me on shore. 

Second camping spot with Cap-de-Rabast visible at the far end - Pointe Wickham – 19h17

I set up the tent and prepare supper with all my gear on to loose a minimum of blood.  I've learned from yesterday’s tribute.  A superb sunset on the north shore of the St-Lawrence takes on all tones of red and orange.  Far to the west, Cap-de-Rabast is visible and for a second night, I fall asleep with the sweet whining of hundreds of mosquitoes outside the tent.

PHOTOS (100-2274/100-2309).-.Pointe Wickham – Passed Havre du Brick

DAY 3 Friday 20-07-2007 Wake-up 6h10 – departure 7h45 – arrival 19h00 – 45 Km

It rained a good part of the night.  Everything is a bit wet and the air is heavy with humidity.  Ever since waking up, I hear strange noises far away.  It's a sort of demonic and continuous scream from far away.  After paddling 2km, I see a large group of sea lions resting on rocks a little ways out.  In French a sea lion is called ''Loup Marin'' literal translation ''Sea Wolf''.  The name is well chosen considering the eerie non-stop howl a band emits.  As I approach Cap-de-Rabast, the weather keeps on deteriorating and if I stop paddling the wind now pushes me backwards.

Lighthouse and service buildings – Cap-de-Rabast – 8h58

Caplan(small sardine like fish) have certainly come to spawn recently as the water is littered with hundreds of dead fish.  I imagine that whales and seals must have stuffed themselves is the passed weeks.  I see the last whale of the trip very far out while visiting the lighthouse.  I arrive in the center of Baie des Trois Ruisseaux at 10h30 and get out on the reef to stretch my legs.  The shore is completely sealed off by the ''reef'' and after 15 minutes, the fog bank I spied on in the far horizon surprises me by rolling over the hills at great speed and fogging out the bay.  I was expecting to have plenty of time to cross but I'm learning weather changes rapidly here.  The fog is very dense and I can see maybe 10 feet ahead.  It's my first try navigating in fog and I hope dearly I won’t get lost. Everything goes well with the GPS and after 20 minutes, I'm back close to shore that's now of ghostly appearance in its thick white coat.  The fog not only hides the scenery but muffles out most of the sound.  The rest of the afternoon passes by rapidly with the same head wind cooling me off and keeping my speed down.  Paddling in fog while following the fogged out ''reef'' is magical and the shear beauty of it all keep's me as energized as the bunny.

Foggy afternoon – Between Baie Martin and Cap Nord – 14h06

A few kilometres after Cap Caron, I meet 3 kayakers (1 single kayak and 1 double kayak).  They have 5 days left to make it to Port-Menier and they give me advice on the nicest bays ahead, notably Havre du Sauvage.  It's definitely a place where it would be great to camp a few days!  Even with the difficulty of access by water because of very shallow water, I stop to get some water out of a stream and take a walk.  There is road access to this haven and while approaching, I see 3 people walking on the beach.  They are already gone when I arrive.  Cap Blanc, Cap Nord and especially Pointe de Hautes Falaises are all very impressive cliff wise. 

''Reef'', forest, cliffs - Hautes Falaises – 17h52

There are a few caves visible in the upper part of Hautes Falaises that are the biggest cliffs so far.  After 1 or 2 Km passed the beginning of Havre du Brick, its disaster time.  While hugging the shore because water seemed a bit deeper than further out, I hit bottom at grand speed. It's not a light grind that happens a few times a day but a heart breaking sudden stop that will rip the hull (trough the keel strips) in 2 places.   I stop on shore 5 minutes after with 2 inches of water sloshing around the bottom of the boat.  I've had this boat for over 6 years and even with all the bad treatment and constant abuse I've never done something remotely this bad to it.  The worst hole is right in front of the keel aluminium rub strip. It's worn clean and there is no way to remove the screws with the tools I have.  That's going to be a hard one to fix properly.  It's now 19h00 and I have to set up camp and the tarp because a large storm is approaching from the East.  I finally take my paddling gear off at 21h00 under a strong rain and rapidly dropping temperatures.  The storm will die out in the morning around 9h00.

PHOTOS (100-2310/100-2314).-.Passed Havre du Brick – Passed Havre du Brick

DAY 4 Saturday 21-07-2007 Wake-up 4h40/9h50 - departure 13h00 – arrival 15h00 – 4 Km

It's disaster day.  Not only do I miss out on a beautiful day with a strong wind that would have pushed me all day, but I work like a mad man to gain a few measly kilometres.  I wake-up at 4h40 with the bottom half of my sleeping bag drenched.  I decide to sleep-in as I don't want to dismantle camp under the rain.   I get up at 9h50, normally there's no problem but the tide is going out and I need to hurry if I don't want to get stuck on land.  Preparation to leave is long and I've got to repair the hull.  I know I should do a proper repair job but there's a sense of urgency and I use the easy stick on variety patches.  When I'm finally ready to go, the water is hundreds of meters out.  It's a long portage of gear and boat to open water.

Receding tide, a long portage a head – On the way to Rivière à l’Huile – 11h56

It's an hours work and after a 13h00 departure, it only takes a minute to realise that temporary patches don't stick to a wet hull.  The kayak is filling up at the same rate as yesterday.  I would gladly return to shore and do the permanent repairs but its low tide and I won’t commit to another hard portage.  I stop on an exposed part of the ''reef'' and in 30 minutes I have another temporary patch on, this one even less convincing than the first.  Back on the water, cold water seeps in immediately. I decide to at least change bays and while being pushed by the wind for an hour I paddle and pump my sinking Kodiak for 3Km.  At 15h00, the tide is going up and a nice beach with the sun that's making an appearance call's me in.  I spend the afternoon drying everything, sunbathing, eating as much as possible to lighten up the boat and repairing the now bone dry boat.  I go to bed at 21h00 slightly pissed at having worked much too hard for a few Km.  The wind is supposed to be in the same direction tomorrow and I fall asleep promising myself a big day tomorrow.

PHOTOS (100-2315/100-2376).-.Passed Havre du Brick – Passed Ruisseau au Caplan

DAY 5 Sunday 22-07-2007 Wake-up 5h15 – departure 6h30 – arrival 20h15 – 59 Km

It's one of those incredible days with glorious sunshine, refreshing wind at your back and a growing swell that pushes you along all day.  It's the type of day your almost happy to see the sunset as it would be impossible to stop.  I have very few notes other than navigation points that zip by at great speed.  I stay at large taking advantage of numerous surf rides in the slightly larger swell in the middle of bays.  The kayak is extremely heavy and very stable so the stress associated with surfing in frigid water is simply not there.

Cliff – On the way to Ruisseau Savoy – 13h39

I stop at Rivière Macdonald in the bay that bears the same name at around 15h30.  It's my first stop after almost 9h00 sitting in the kayak, I walk on the beach like a drunk, my legs completely shot.  Wind intensifies at Pointe à l’Épinette, the conditions are deteriorating and it's starting to be of concern.  I decide to cut one last bay, Baie du Caplan, to make it to the Wilcox shipwreck rapidly.  It's a really bad idea.  A light wind coming straight off the island (from the South) that started a few house ago is now intensifying.  When I reach the middle of the bay, the once pleasant swell combined to the wind from shore becomes scary.  I can hardly see the horizon in the bottom of the swell and the East side of the bay, bordered by massive cliffs, is littered with whitecaps.  A little 15 minute sprint towards the beach at the beginning of the cliffs and I start breathing again.  I land at 17h50 on a steep beach in small 1 or 2 foot waves without much difficulty.  It's not a comfortable camping beach and I hope the wind will settle as it has done in the previous nights.  The sun starts setting and at 19h15, the wind ceases almost completely.  Leaving the beach to make it to Anse à la Vache where I want to camp gets me drenched but it's an easy exit considering the conditions.  Pointe Carleton is swimming in a sea of rebounding waves, the lighthouse and its dependencies tower over the water in a superb red sky. It's a perfect photo that I miss out on as my camera literally eats batteries.  I land on a smallish beach near the cliffs, change batteries but it's too late, it's already almost dark.

Last second sunset photo– Pointe Carleton – 19h57

A small stop at the Wilcox shipwreck that ran aground in 1954 ¹ for a few photos that are all too dark.  I fill my water bags in the Ruisseau au Caplan and then stop at 20h15 to camp for the night.  A wonderful day, but staying at large all day is a lot less interesting than hugging the shore. On the other hand, there are not that many days when you can surf long hours and have little fear of capsizing.  

PHOTOS (100-2377/100-2463).-.Passed Ruisseau au Caplan – Baie de l’Ours

DAY 6 Monday 23-07-2007 Wake-up 5h30 – departure 7h20 – arrival 18h30 – 46 Km

A superb sun filled morning with a strong wind blowing from the South-East (from the island) that will intensify all day.  I cut the lower third of Anse à la Vache to go to Pointe à la Vache and quickly it becomes the hardest part of the day.  I'm hit with the same swell as yesterday but the wind from the island is pushing me offshore with little side waves that are very close one to the other.  For the next 2 days, I'm forced to hug the shore as I fear being blown offshore.  It's not a problem as these are the prettiest shores on the island, connecting point to point would be a sin.  I decide then and there to stay close to shore for the rest of the trip (when the tide permits).  Until Pointe Health, the "reef" is less present with the exception of Anse Harvey, Baie du Renard and as the name tells Pointe Reef.  Although the day it's a succession of idyllic beaches in large bays that all have rivers or streams.  It's like being down south with the exception that the water is extremely cold.  I have a nice sunbath at Rivière Observation, the scenery is magical and well guarded by immense cliffs to the East.

Beach and mouth of Rivière Observation – Rivière Observation – 10h20

I see 2 kayakers on the beach at Anse Tap, I decide to go straight trough as to leave them their little piece of private paradise.  The sun is hitting hard and I need to take a swimming break.  I stop in the next bay at Ruisseau Gaudry where there's a lobster fisherman's shack.  The stream water is warm and after a good swim followed by a good meal and a sunbath I continue with a smile permanently stamped in my face.  I built duct tape ear protectors, my ears have burnt up in this morning’s sun.  It's another day where it's hard to stop.  In places, I enjoy a few surf rides with the scenery becoming nicer around every corner.  There are very nice chalets at Vauréal la Mer, but nobody's home.

This is me, salted and sun dried - End of Baie Maujerol – 15h03

Arriving at Rivière des Petits Jardins, I'm awestruck.  It's one of the nicest bays I've seen in my life.  It's sandwiched between two massive capes with a beautiful arched beach and clear blue and green water.

East part of the beach – Anse du Sentier Vert and mouth of Rivière des Petits Jardins – 16h33

While leaving the bay, I cross a big seal colony that takes longer than usual to swim away.  They whole group is following me from further out while a few brave ones come in for a closer look from time to time. It's a bit scary, I have massive cliffs to my right and a large group of seals watching me to my left.  When I arrive in Baie Beacon, they all disappear at the same time.  I see them reappear in a straight line ahead of me.  They are hunting fish, I admit to being quite relieved not being their prized food source.  While paddling alongside the cliff that leads to Cap de l’Ours, there’s a massive rock fall about a hundred feet to the back of me.  You really have to watch yourself while at the base of these big cliffs, especially the ones composed of compressed layers of rock and dirt.  All day I've seen rocks fall off the cliffs, but here it's non-stop.  When I corner Cap de l’Ours, the South wind hit's me full force. It's the slowest 500m of the day.  I stop in the West part of Baie de l’Ours at 18h30, my arms are dead after a real battle against the wind at the end of a long day.  I'm camped by a stream with a little cascade, a shoreline of fine gravel and the most beautiful view of the whole trip.  To my right I see a succession of giant capes (Pointe Eaton, Pointe de la Tour, Cap Robert and Pointe Harvey), to my left the cliff that tried to do me in at the end of the day.  

The four big capes named above – View from my sixth camping spot – 18h42

Words don't do this place justice: the setting sun, the grandiose capes, seals spying on me in the water and a huge beautiful wild bay.  It's a perfect place, but as all is not well in paradise.  A few minutes after landing, black flies storm in and I'm forced to wear mosquito netting.  I hear them hitting the tent walls non stop once I'm in the tent.  .  I go to get some water out of the stream only to find it polluted with two deer carcases in the basin at the bottom of the cascade.

PHOTOS (100-2464/100-2543).-.Baie de l’Ours – Passed Cap Tunnel

DAY 7 Tuesday the 24-07-2007 Wake-Up 5h30 – departure 7h20 – arrival 19h45 – 49 Km

Mysteriously, there are no bugs this morning.  It's a good thing as I'm extremely slow to dismantle camp and load the boat.  Its day 2 of the giant capes and the temperature is ideal as it was yesterday.  I read last night that there was a try at colonising the bay in 1873¹ and that some foundations are still visible in the back of the bay.  I promised myself to go have a look, promised not kept as I remember this in the wrong bay. I easily pass Cap Eaton, but while entering the bay yesterday's scenario repeats itself.

Speaking of giant headlands– Cap Eaton – 7h51

The Southeast wind hits me head on and I have to paddle full steam as to not be blown offshore.  Worst case scenario, I could line the boat in waist deep water right by the cliffs edge so it's not that bad.  It's the first day that the boat feels more like a kayak than a barge.  I've done good work at eating as much as I can and it's finally paying off.  Baie de la Tour and Pointe de la Tour are as impressive as Cap Eaton. Rivière Natiscotec is sublime and I take advantage of warmer water to take a swim.  It's another bay that's not satisfied with a single river, Rivière Métallique's mouth also reaches the St-Lawrence here.  Ever since Carleton, all the bays have a minimum of one stream if it's not 1 or 2 rivers.  The beaches are all incredible and it would be easy to camp here for days on end.  Surprisingly there are hundreds of domestic style flies that invade the kayak each time I stop.  Fortunately, they have no interest in me.  I also see the first jellyfish of the trip in Baie Natiscotec.

Nice red jellyfish – Baie Natiscotec – 8h17

For the brave at heart, go on internet, there are dozens of jellyfish recipes, I'll pass.  Arriving at Baie des Homards, I decide that my fins and mask will be useless.  I was told it's a bountiful year to get lobster but to go diving voluntarily in freezing water is another story.  I take advantage of one of the streams here to take a layer of salt off my clothes and body.

Magnificient beach protected on both sides by cliffs – Baie des Homards – 11h28

While exciting Baie de Homards and trough Pointe Harvey, the waves are rebounding heavily on the cliffs.  I have to go a ways out to reach calmer water.   I still have a nice wind pushing me along and after going around Cap Harvey, the "reef" makes its comeback.  At 4h00, I stop at Rivière aux Saumons after a difficult approach against the wind (it's the place with the most buildings other than Port Menier on the island).  Just time to step out and get the legs going again and suddenly a very powerful north wind lasting 10 minutes hits and transforms the shallow bay into a sea of whitecaps.   Passing Pointe Harvey under this wind would have been a dangerous adventure or at least very scary.  The ''reef'' is very shallow and a flat landscape dominates up until Ruisseau Macarie.  Baie Mill is gigantic, I take a break at a small stream that falls on the shore of the St-Lawrence from a six foot ledge.   The stream bed lays on the bottom a small canyon that would be a pleasure to explore.  I continue alongside the cliff's base that leads to Cap James.  The swell is very deep and the waves rebounding on the cliffs leave the sea in a rough state.  I pick up a second band of seals at the end of Baie Mill that will trail me the rest of the day.  I want some pictures of Cap Tunnel before the sun is too low so when I arrive at my navigation point and see it 1,5 KM away, I start paddling like a mad man.

A little present after a long day – Cap Tunnel – 19h23

While filming my traverse of the tunnel, the batteries die out again.  I set up camp 500m away on a tiny beach that's far from ideal and smells deeply of guano. I arrive at 19h45, interrupting the international meeting of aggressive black flies.  I was being bitten on the water but on land it's intense.  I slip into my mosquito netting that saves me for a second time in 2 days.

PHOTOS (100-2544/100-2627).-.Passed Cap Tunnel – Passed Cap Sandtop

DAY 8 Wednesday 28-07-2007 wake-up 5h30 – departure 6h50 – arrival 18h50 – 35 Km

After waking early, I return to get some shots of Cap Tunnel.  I have to wear my mosquito netting as it's still black with flies this morning.  Sweat is pouring off me even before I get on the water.  The day is torrid and there is no wind at all. 

Seaweed under a few feet of water – Close to the Cap Tunnel – 7h27

After a brief backtrack to Cap Tunnel, I cut Baie Prinsta diagonally to arrive at the beginning of the cliffs on the far side.  I want to have a luxury breakfast at the Cap à la Table Inn.  During my first visit to Anticosti, I remember a delicious buffet breakfast in superb settings.  Luckily I have the motivation provided by the promise of good food as the heat is overwhelming.  At 9h00 I arrive exhausted and completely soaked by sweat.  I then change into my human clothes and head up the trail that goes up the hill and to the inn.

Bee's heaven – Cap à la Table – 9h21

It's a real downer: either the place is abandoned or the inn keepers have a lot of work to do to open up for hunting season this fall.  All the buildings are buzzing with bees, some windows are open, others boarded up and grass is waist high.  The lighthouse door is broken, I'm tempted to go up for the view but when I hear what sounds like the mother of bee colonies inside, I back off rapidly.  So it's a return to paddling a little disappointed but, life goes on.  The landscape flattens out drastically once passed Cap à la Table. At 10h00, a light breeze starts and it's easier to go on.  This said it's still very hot out and when reaching Pointe au Renard, I've drunk 3.5 of my 4 litres of water for the day.  I pass in front of 2 small colonies of seagulls that will only be a teaser for the Falaise aux Goélands that's on tomorrow’s agenda.  I need water and decide to head into Baie du Renard to get water either in the stream or the lake.  The bay is very shallow and the going is slow as I don't want to hit the ''reef'' too solidly and rip out the patches.  I really don't want to have another bad experience like on day 4. On the spit of land that isolates the lake from the St-Lawrence there a few little houses, a bigger one is probably a hunting pavilion and the lobster fisherman has another shack and cage depot.   I'm almost able to paddle directly into the lake, at high tide it would be quite easy.  Evidently, I can't take water here as it's contaminated by salt so it's off to the next water source, Ruisseau de la Chute.  Passing Pointe Reef gives the impression of floating in a giant aquarium.  The river is as flat as a lake and the bottom is visible at great depths.  I stop a while later to eat by the lakes in Baie Innomée (I did not check but I imagine they are salty as they are protected from salt water only by a shallow gravel bank).  There is a very big hunting pavilion perched on the cliffs that form the East part of the bay.  The cliff is spectacular not by it's height but by the absence of water at its base and the top portion being overhanging.  Arriving at Ruisseau de la Chute, I'm surprised to see a few small sources falling from mid cliff.  I love the site of Ruisseau de la Chute.  

Almost warm water, perfect for a good shower – Ruisseau de la Chute – 15h00

An absolutely necessary shower brings me back to life after sweating heavily throughout the day.  I take a time out to eat some more, prepare some drinking water and wallop in the shallow pool at the base of the waterfall.  I strongly consider camping here on giant blocks of rock fall close by, but once again I have an insatiable need to go see what's after the next cape.  Baie Sandtop takes its name from a thick sand layer on top of the cliff that belts it.

Sand everywhere in the middle of a long continuous cliff section – Cap Sandtop – 17h56

The cliffs are not as big as the cliffs in Baie Innomée, but it's very interesting visually with its unusual topping.  After the second stream in Baie Sandtop, it's a continuous cliff until my camp site near Falaise des Goélands. It's the longest section of cliffs with no possibility of landing, maybe 4 or 5Km and with strong weather has to be avoided at all costs.  I arrive at 18H50 about 1Km from Cap aux Goélands just on the outskirts of Pointe Health Ecological Reserve.

Ultra confortable camp site – Near Cap aux Goélands – 18h50

I camp just behind the sign of the reserve so technically I'm still legal.  Another superb day and a cosy camp site on tall cushy grass that make for a very comfortable bed. 

PHOTOS (100-25628/100-2706).-.Passed Cap Sandtop – Baie au Cormoran

DAY 9 Thursday 29-07-2007 Wake-up 4h50/7h45 – departure 9h45 – arrival 17h40 – 20 Km

I wake-up at 4h50 under heavy rain I proceed go back to sleep immediately.  Second try at 7h45 under a slight drizzle.  I arrive at Cap aux Goélands rapidly and, once around it's a show like I've never seen before.  I fell exactly like if I were in the middle of a National Geogrphic special.  Somme 50 000 nesting birds (guillemots, puffins, northern gannets et tridactyle seagulls)³ on a 2Km stretch of cliff give a intense visual, olfactif and very loud show.  I take a load of videos but not quite enough photos.  To sense the magic of this place, other than being here a video camera is necessary.  I dearly regret not having brought one along. Filming with my camera does not the place justice.

My favourite section on Anticosti – small section of Baie aux Goélands – 10h40

I try not to hang around for too long as technically I'm not allowed here.  At least, I don't believe my presence is bothering the birds much.  The seagulls ignore me completely if but to use me as a floating latrine.  After nearly an hour of paddling very slowly along the cliff (I was not able to stay a shorter amount of time) I arrive at Ruisseau Gaudrealt. It's a nice stream plunging from the top of high cliffs into the water below.  A little further out, there are hundreds of seagulls fishing.  Approaching Pointe de l’Est(eastern most point) at 11h45, seals are more and more numerous.  The swell is back and large waves break on shore and offshore all around the point.  Luckily it does not last long and once Pointe de l'Est behind, all that's left is a medium sized swell.  The kilometres passed Pointe de l’Est are the equivalent of Falaise aux Goélands, but for seals.

Seal colony – Bay just after Pointe de l’Est – 12h02

It's a superb bay, almost a perfect half circle, with 3 or 4 small coves filled to capacity with seals.  When I think that a few days ago I was scared when they came too close.  I would definitely have had a stroke here.  It's another place that look's like it was taken out of a documentary.  The whole place feels wilder and more natural than the rest of the island, as if humans were not welcome in such a place.  Arriving in Baie du Naufrage, the cliffs die out to be replaced by a long sand and gravel beach.  A solid wind hits me head on again and I follow the shoreline in a few feet of water to arrive after a long continuous effort to the lake in the Baie du Naufrage.  The lobster fisherman has another shack and cage depot here, I stop behind the cages to have lunch and take a break.  Pointe Health is an easy paddle away where I go explore the remains of an old lighthouse and stumble upon 3 tombstones.

What a nice place to R.I.P. – Pointe Health – 14h27

It's the resting place of Captain R.C. Jennings, drowned in 1890 at the age of 32.  I wanted to go see the trailers on the point but decided against as I don't have permission to be here.  I was expecting big waves going around this headland but it's rather calm.  After 15 minutes my expectations are met as a large wave breaks over me drenching me in the process.  I'm surprised to suddenly de paddling in big waves with a strong wind coming from the south.  The wind is a killer as it takes an eternity to arrive at the Petite Rivière, that is actually very close.  When I hit Baie du Cormoran, the wind is even stronger, paddling hard, the GPS shows me moving at 2.2Km/h.   There are 2 small houses as well as what I think is another hunting pavilion in the West part of the bay.  I camp directly on a dirt and grass road that looks like it has not been used in a long time.  Stopping at 17h40, I have time to take a walk on this small road until Pointe au Cormoran.  The wind dies out, the sun slowly sets and softens up the sky.  It's a real pleasure to be walking.  I chance upon a bald eagle in its nest, he does not seem as happy to see me as I him.

PHOTOS (100-2707/100-2746).-.Baie au Cormoran – Passed Ruisseau Sans Nom 2 (about 5Km to the East of Pointe à la Croix)

Day 10 friday 30-07-2007 Wake-up 6h45 – departure 8h15 – arrival 20h15 – 29 Km

It's a very calm morning with a tiny almost imperceptible swell and light winds.  In the big Baie de l’Outarde, the wind intensifies and the swell starts to be replaced by short choppy waves.

Tree bent by dominant winds – Baie de l’Outarde – 6h54

The scenery is not what it was on the north side of the island.  It's kilometres of hybrid sand and rock beaches with miniature cliffs that are not very long at all.  I regret not having filmed more on the north shore as I have a lot of space left on my memory cards.  I make it with difficulty to Pointe aux Oies, where I stop to take a breather.  While my short break the wind has intensified enough to halt progress.  I decide to make an effort and move on ahead 3Km to Petite Rivière de la Loutre.  The map shows a large lake connected to the river that could be fun to explore while I'm weather-bound.  Between 11h15 and 12h50, I only make 2.5Km of distance.  It's a bit stupid to fight such a strong wind and I stop about 500M short of the lake, incapable of moving ahead anymore.  I take advantage of the 15 - 25 knot wind (so says my VHF radio / I think it was a lot stronger than that) to dry my clothes and explore the river.  On route to the river, I see 6 large whale vertebras.

Baby seal sunning itself – Petite Rivière de la Loutre – 13h51

It breaks my heart not to be able to bring a vertebra back home but the marrow has not rotted away completely and it smells really bad.  At the mouth of the river, there is another shack and lobster cage depot.  There’s a baby seal sunning itself.  I film it from a few feet away before he realises I'm there.  I'm such a bad person, I constantly scare seals.  Other than here where I'm really abusing, these creatures are terribly fearful and swim away even with a very wide berth.  At 15h00, I head back to my kayak.  Wind is abiding but I will wait a little bit more.  The forecast is for 10-15 knot winds in early evening.  I leave the beach at 16h45 in what seems like drastically less wind.  Not a good idea, it takes 2h to go 6Km to Pointe de la Croix. Once passed this point, it's the return of a deep swell and then suddenly, the wind stops.  I'm treated to another superb sunset and a big beautiful yellow moon rise.  I stop at 20h15 on a steep large rock beach.  It's possibly my worst campsite to date but I want to set up camp before darkness and I'm really tired.  Tomorrow's forecast is for 10-15 knot southeast winds and sunny skies all morning.  It should go better than today.

PHOTOS (100-2747/100-2810).-.Passed Ruisseau Sans Nom2 (about 5Km to the Est of Pointe à la Croix) – Cirque de la Chaloupe

DAY 11 Saturday 31-07-2007 Wake-up 5h15 – departure 7h00 – arrival 18h15 – 33 Km

It's a very warm morning.  I'm sweating madly even before hitting the water.  The river is calm, no wind and all that breaks the perfect surface of the water is a tiny swell a few inches high.  The kilometres slip by easily after 2½ days of head winds.  It's great to be moving faster again and I make it to Pointe Sud(southern most point) in what seems like no time.

Old abandoned lighthouse – Pointe Sud – 9h22

From my viewpoint: the shore some fifty feet away crowned by the immense old lighthouse and out at large, the exposed ''reef" loaded with birds and seals,  reconciliates me with the island I've come to paddle.  Two groups of sea lions howl loudly and coward away as I pass.  From the top of the new metallic structure that replaces the old lighthouse, as far as the eye can see, the interior is flat and covered with peat-bog and small lakes, and the island is protected by it's wide littoral plateau.  A little further on, passed the Ecarpement de Bagot, I see what seems to be a small island close to shore.  I guess it to be the Mongibello that ran aground in 1922, the second biggest shipwreck in the St Lawrence. 

Mongibello, go see it before it's too late – Pointe Shandon – 12h02

I can't wait to see it but I have more pressing business for the moment.  Last night, I forgot to get water.  The direct consequence is that I'm flat out, and it's quite warm out.  I stop at the first 2 streams passed the Escarpement de Bagot, but they are both contaminated by saltwater.   Seaweed mats floating in stagnant water, it's really not ideal.  I stop a bit further at Ruisseau du Canot, but it's the same story.  The landscape here is flat and low, I regret not having picked up some water at Rivière Bell this morning.  I arrive quickly on Mongibello's grave.  It's a big wreck well eaten up by rust with the interior now colonised by northern gannets.  It's almost possible to go into the ship trough the rusted out hull but it's really asking for trouble, especially in a skin boat.  A little further along, I stop at Ruisseau Box.  On the map it looks large enough to not be brackish.  But there again the water goes way in, it's mouth running straight trough a large sand bank.  10 minutes after, I see a little stream that cascades down some rock shelves some 10 feet above the water level.  I drink 1 litre of warm water straight up.  The place is perfect to take a bath, eat and work on my tan.  Farmer style is nice (red arms and face), but since no one is around, I opt for a full body tan.  There are little eels going up the rocks to reach the stream, and once again I scare the wildlife.  Little eels scatter and hide if I get too close.  I stay here from 13h30 to 15h00. Around 15h15, the sky is starting to darken.  I'm forced to paddle very far out as the littoral plateau is kilometres wide.  During the next hours, I'm forced to exit the boat three times in a few inches of water and drag the kayak.  At Pointe Dauphine, I have to walk over 15 minutes in the very cold water.  It's the price to pay if you want to see the shore a little bit.  I arrive at Cirque de la Chaloupe, where I paddle directly in a protected lake with my kayak.  There is a small cabin accessible by road but no one is home.  Rain that had started at 16h00 stops at 18h00 and starts again at 20h00. Chance is smiling upon me as I've never had to set up camp under the rain.  Tonight it's a special camp set-up as a major storm is coming my way.  I set-up the tarpaulin with driftwood to cover a maximum of the tent(it's a bit too small), dig small channels in the sand to drain rain water and move the aluminium framed Kodiak a ways out.  The rain starts a minute after I'm done setting up and the wall of my tent not under the tarpaulin is drenched in minutes.  I hear loud thunder and imagine lightning close by.  I'm quite happy not to be able to see outside.  Oh powerful inflatable mattress, isolate me from the ground if lightning strikes close by.  Ha!Ha! Magical thoughts help me to fall asleep in the middle of a powerful storm.

PHOTOS (100-2811/100-2855).-.Cirque de la Chaloupe – Rivière du  pavillon

Day 12 Sunday 01-08-2007 Wake-up 6h30 – departure 8h30 – arrival 16h45– 29 Km

This morning, the island is draped in heavy fog.  Rain starts falling rapidly and I have to stay well offshore.

Rain makes beards grow, heavy morning rainstorms – Near Rivière Maccan - 9h49

It's really boring, I can only see the shore as a thin line in the horizon until the fog lifts a few hours later.    

My third chance to get whale bone, this one smells so bad that I'm very close to being sick - Just before Rivière Ferrée – 10h53

I stop just after Rivière Ferrée to prepare some water.  I was not able to go see the river as the bay is much too shallow to approach the shore.  Almost no seals today, maybe thirty animals total, a lot less than usual.  It's a grey afternoon but a cool breeze keeps me well motivated.

Steve C. shipwreck – About 6Km before reaching Rivière du Pavillon – 14h55

The sections before and after Ruisseau Martin are very pretty.  It's the biggest cliffs so far on the South shore.  I arrive at 17h10 at Rivière au Pavillon. The place is ideal: big embankments of fine gravel, a nice river to swim in and topped off with easy access.   I install my tent on the gravel bank between the St Lawrence and the Pavillion river and take advantage of an early stop to get all my gear dehumidified.  I dine while spying on two black foxes rummaging for food on shore under an almost clear sky. 

PHOTOS (100-2856/100-2908).-.Rivière du Pavillon – Passed Pointe de la Tourbe

Day 13 Monday 02-08-2007 Wake-up 6h15 – departure 7h50 – arrival 19h00 – 40 Km

A super day where like on the north shore it's impossible to stop because you want to see what's in the next bay.  The sky is grey and the temperature pretty cool, ideal conditions to paddle in.  I quickly arrive at Rivière Chicotte at around 10h30. A walk trough a small canyon that's only 500M from the mouth of the river is a welcome break.  A few fish holes are visible, but unfortunately I don’t' see any fish in them. Suddenly I'm close to a panic.  My camera gives me the familiar "Low Battery" bip. I only have 2 new batteries left and decide to go visit the new SÉPAQ pavilion.  I'm one lucky guy, I buy the last 4 AA batteries from their tiny shop that sells: batteries, film, chips and chocolate.  For people that could be interested, it's possible to take horse tours from this location. While returning to the boat, I almost stumble on a deer that's sleeping.

That's one brave deer – Rivière Chicotte – 11h18

I'm under the impression that this deer is feed as it has no fear whatsoever of me.  I leave Rivière Chicotte at 11h30.  The shore between Pointe aux Morts and about 1Km passed Rivière aux Rats has a similar landscape to the Mingan Islands.  The place stands out with the help of Ruisseau aux Plats that tumbles precipitously into the St-lawrence and the littoral plateau very close to the shore that rises squarely a few feet out of the water.  At low tide it's an effective measure that renders landing impossible.  Arriving at Rivière aux Plats, I scare off a large seal colony.  For the first and only time, a seal gets real close and swims under the kayak.  Between 14h00 and 16h00, I get a free ride on a mini surfing session up to Rivière Galiotte. 

Mouth of the river – Rivière Galiotte -  15h51

When I arrive at Rivière Galiotte, I immediately see an old hunting pavilion in ruin.  I hesitate between camping here or going on.  I opt to continue as I'm directly in the line of sight of a new hunting pavilion and of few rental units with some folks on their balconies.  I'll have to do a big effort as I'm on the outskirts of the Grand Lac Salé Ecological Reserve. I will not camp in an ecological reserve first by respect for the place and second because I imagine the fine to be quite heavy if you’re caught.  I make my way to the Petit Lac Salé and, deceit, there are almost no birds if but a few ducks.  On the Grand Lac Salé, it's even worse, it's completely devoid of birds.  I exit this huge bay and go about my business of going around Pointe à la Tourbe.  It's not as easy as I had hoped.  Once again, I have to go way offshore, over 1Km out and follow the outer edge of the "reef" for a good half-hour before being able to land.  The thick layer of decaying seaweed exposed to the air on the "reef" gives it an orange tint, very nice.  I arrive at 19h00, on a super nice camping site with a pond to the back and a very red sunset over the river.

PHOTOS (100-2909/100-2944).-. Passed Pointe de la Tourbe – Rivière à la Chute

DAY 14 Tuesday 03-08-2007 Wake-up 6h45 – departure 9h00 – arrival 19h40 – 12 Km

I'm not in a hurry this morning, I sit a long while, contemplating the scenery that's painted with surprisingly vivid colors even for a such drab morning. Orange seaweed drying on the ''reef and dark blue from deep St-Lawrence water almost seem like a painting in the light fog.

My tent drying – About 2Km passed Pointe de la Tourbe – 7h10

My tent is drying during this time, it has drizzled all night and everything is a bit humid.  My destination in not far, I want to go walk the Rivière Brick and do a major fossil hunt.  I make it there in 50 minutes under a grey sky that seems to be loosing out to the sun.  While crossing the river, I see some jellyfish hanging on some seaweed, really strange because it's not salt water.

Lucky jellyfish that don't die in fresh water – Mouth of the Rivière du Brick – 10h04

It's my hiking day, I walk-up the river bed for the first kilometre, and then once the bridge that gaps the river is reached decide to take the road for the next 6Km.  The walk to the camp, Brick sur Roche, is made under a scorching sun and never expecting it to be so long I brought no water.  I arrive at the camp at 12h15 and run to the river for a drink and swim.  While doing so I forget to search the base of the cliff near the camp that the ''Écoguide Anticosti^''1, says is one of the best fossil sites on the island.  I take the afternoon to return slowly to the St-Lawrence.  Time flies: I swim in all the fish holes, I photograph the canyon walls abundantly but mainly, I pick up fossils that are everywhere..

Hiking day – Brick canyon – 13h26

When I reach the bridge once again, my fossil bag probably weights 25 pounds (the kayak was getting to light so I had to correct the situation).  Back at my boat at 17h15, I see 4 SÉPAQ employees fly-fishing at the mouth of the river.  They look very concentrated and don't seem to see me.  I leave 15 minutes after with a cooling headwind and perfect blue skies.  I have to go way out again, the orange seaweed covered ''reef'' is ever present.  While approaching the beach on which I want to camp, I scare off another group of seal.  This is the most fearful bunch I've seen as I'm so far away I can barely see them when they swim away.  Rivière à la Chute is a real dream of a place to camp.  There is a beautiful cascade with a large swimming hole, a wide sand beach and over a kilometre of flat rocks to explore to the East.  I discover 2 cans of tuna and some Smarties forgotten at the bottom of my big pasta container: oh joy!

PHOTOS (100-2945/100-2964).-. Rivière à la Chute – Rivière à la Chute

Day 15 Wednesday 04-08-2007 Wake-up h – departure – arrival h – 0 Km

Day of absolute rest.

Luxury camp site – Rivière à la Chûte – 16h15

I love this site dearly, but basically I have trouble getting up and I don't want to move.  Pretty early on I acknowledge that I don't want to go trough all the trouble of dismantling camp, portaging it all to the water and fight a head wind all day.  I take full advantage of the day to swim, tan and pick up some more fossils.

When I talk about being a lot of fossils on Anticosti – Near Rivière à la Chute – 16h23

I read «Les Engagés du Grand Portage» by Léo-Paul Desrosiers and «Maria Chapdelaine» by Louis Hémon.  I had almost not read since getting of the Nordik Express. 

PHOTOS (100-2965/100-3046).-. Rivière à la Chute – Rivière au Fusil

Day 16 Thursday 05-08-2007 Wake-up 6h30 – departure 7h30 – arrival 16h45 – 35 Km

It's a superb day with a surprisingly strong wind from the East.  I paddle easily to Anse aux Gibbons.  I was expecting to see thousands of birds the site being renowned as one of the top spots for bird watching on Anticosti, but once again, there is not a single one.  Arriving at Pointe Sud-Ouest, they're all waiting for me: crows, ducks, and hundreds of seagulls.  They are all sheltering from the wind in the bay to the West of the point.

Lighthouse in very bad shape – Pointe Sud-Ouest – 9h17

The place reaps beauty: the old lighthouse built in 1831¹, the cemetery, the vegetation battered by winds and the hundreds of birds.  It's a place to visit without miss when going to Anticosti.

Pope family cemetery (lighthouse keepers) and epitaph of the captain and 7 sailors of the Brigantine Orient lost in 1874 – 9h33

The wind is getting stronger and is now pushing me at over 3Km/h without paddling.  I paddle trough a large group of seals and about thirty of them follow me to Rivière Jupiter. I make it to Baie Bonsecours, a very shallow affair indeed at around 11h30 and run aground far offshore.  The cliffs of Cap Ottawa and Cap Jupiter are by far the most impressive cliffs on the south shore.  Cap Jupiter maybe even more, the deeper water at its base permitting to go in for a close look.  I arrive at the beach at 12h00 under a rain shower that’s gaining strength.  The pile of driftwood on shore is like none I’ve ever seen.  It’s about one hundred meters long, several meters thick and a good 10 meters wide.

Holy crap that’s a lot of wood – Beach of Rivière Jupiter – 12h34

This is the place where you could have the ultimate campfire.  At the mouth of the river, there’s and old abandoned house that’s buzzing with bee’s.  I dare not get close.  I find some whale baleen, they smell pretty bad, but with a good drying out, it should be ok.  After a quick lunch, I leave at 12h45 under a pretty intense shower that by luck will not last.  It’ll rain lightly the rest of the afternoon and with the swell getting larger by the hour, I get a few nice surf rides along the way.

The highest cliff on the south shore – Cap Jupiter – 13h42

I stop at Ruisseau sans nom 9 (navigation point) in a large swell to get some water. Strange thing but I can’t find the stream.  After going back on the water, I see a large stream cascading down trough nice pine forest.  It’s a very nice place, impossible to miss.  At 7h30, I stop at Rivière du Fusil for the night.  It’s an incredible place to camp.  There is a nice level grassy space by the river that runs no deeper than a foot over the river bed for over one kilometre.  I take a long walk up the river while waiting for the rain to stop.  There are some holes here and there where you can see a lower level where water goes under the rock. 

PHOTOS (100-3047/100-3110).-. Rivière au Fusil – Passed Rivière Aux Graines

DAY 17 Friday 06-08-2007 Wake-up 5h45 – departure 7h15 – arrival 18h00 – 36 Km

I wake up with a side of my sleeping bag that’s wet.  I slept so well after a day on the water that I didn’t even notice it being soaked during last nights shower.   It’s a cool grey day once again, perfect to be paddling without overheating.  The reef forces me to paddle way out, but I spot something abnormally square that I believe to be a sea cave on shore.  While getting closer, I realise that it’s the Fayette Brown, the biggest shipwreck on the St-Lawrence.

Fayette Brown with my kayak for scale– On route to Rivière à la Loutre – 8h45

Personally, I find the Mongibello much nicer, but with its 60 meters of length and it’s resting place directly on the beach, it’s a very impressive wreck.  At 10h45, the swell disappears completely while passing Anse Kneeland.  The sun has now replaced the grey sky.  The shore is inaccessible as there is not any water any where close to it.  I wanted to stop at Rivière aux Cailloux, that has a reputation as being a beautiful river but the shore is inapproachable.  I stop for lunch at Rivière Sainte-Marie, after being pushed along by a rising tide.

Getting harrier by the hour – Baie Sainte-Marie – 13h07

The bay is very wide and extremely shallow, I can literally see the water rising.  The afternoon is quite dull as I have to stay far from shore.  At around 15h00, I’m witness to a surprising phenomenon.  The tide is covering the exposed littoral plateau that’s quite warm from being in the sun all afternoon.    The cold water coming in contact with it (quite rapidly as little waves have started to build) forms a dense fog that quickly completely hides the island.  It’s a nice vision, I’m under a big shinny sun paddling around an island that now looks like a giant cloud.  The fog does not last long, maybe an hour at most.  By the time I make it to la Rivière des Bec Scies, the sky has turned grey and a real fog bank is arriving from the south.  At 16h30 I’m sitting at a picnic table in a perfect camping place.  Some deer are lazily grazing and there are no mosquitoes thanks to the wind.  The fog is starting to invade the bay and the wind is rising.  I decide to take advantage of the situation: high tide, wind at my back and thick fog that renders the shore mysteriously surreal.  I’m a bit spent for the day and let the wind do most of the job while I enjoy the free ride.

A bit of fog – Cap à la Craie – 17h15

I stop at 18h00 somewhere after Rivière aux Graines in a bay with a steep beach in conditions that are turning sour.  What I had thought was a nice grassy area turns out to be a rock patch with a few weeds sticking out. I then decide to go camp in the woods for smoother ground and wind protection and discover the remains of an old rowboat.  It’s my last night of camping and I have to leave early tomorrow morning, the forecast is for strong winds from the west and heavy showers in the afternoon. 

PHOTOS (100-3111/100-3135).-. Passed Rivière Aux Graines – Port Menier

Day 18 – Saturday 07-08-2007 Wake-up 5h30 – departure 7h45 – arrival 11h42 – 21 Km

It’s a nice start that will turn nasty very quickly.  The coast resembles the rest of the south shore: beaches, pine trees and the "reef" that does a great job in guarding the island.  The first kilometres go smoothly with a tolerable wind from the south.  Then it becomes serious.  Between Pointe aux Graines and Cap à l’Aigle, about 6 Km, I’m stuck in the worst conditions I’ve had during the whole trip.  I try to take a picture of the waves and the fog, but I can’t let go of the paddle long enough to grab my camera.  I have a few waves break over me, but it’s clearly my fault as I’m hugging the "reef" from too close.  When I finally reach Baie Ellis, the sky turns blue and I can see Port Menier in the distance.  For its part, the wind does not disappear and the last few kilometres are certainly not a free ride.  I arrive at the dock at 12h00, under a sky that has reverted to grey, very happy to be back from a trip that went great on a spectacular island.  My gear is reasonably dry by 13h00, so I start packing it all in the transport bags.  I hide my two bags behind the storage depot of the Nordik Express that only opens tomorrow (Sunday at 23h00).  Location Sauvageau wants a real fortune for a rental truck so I opt for the Port Menier Inn.  At 99$/day with a bath, cable tv and hungry deer on the premises, it’s really what I need.

One very kind overfeed deer– In front of the SÉPAQ Inn – 16h23

I miss out on the Vauréal waterfall, Observation canyon and Patate cave.  At least I saw these sites on a prior visit to the island.  If you go, don’t miss these, they are star attractions on the Island.

PHOTOS (100-3143/100-3144)

I spent most of Sunday just lying on the grass outside the village.

Now that’s what a village should look like– Port Menier – 19h33

I have a nice view of the "reef" and a good hot sun.  I take the time to read a classic novel that I should have read in school a long time ago: Menaud, maître draveur  from Félix Antoine Savard.  At night time, I get a luxury meal at the Inn: red deer meat, Matane shrimp, cheese cake and coffee.  It’s really great and red meat is the best thing ever.  I finish it off at the bar as I want to sleep comfortably once again on the upper deck benches of the ship.  My bags are in the containers at 23h30, the boat arrives at 0h00.  I was charged 30$ on the way over to put my bags on the ship.  On the way back, the people here are nice enough to put them on for free.  The boat leaves at 1h00 instead of 3h00. Good stuff, we’ll arrive at Rimouski and Montréal faster.

THANK YOU

I’d like to thank Fernand Lavoie, Alexandre Blais and (???Michel or Pierre??? I deleted his e-mail by mistake – he wrote me that he would be on Anticosti on the 25th of July – sorry) for their precious guidance.

Thanks Julie Benoit for transporting me and my junk to the port of Rimouski and keeping my car safe during the trip. 

Thank you Émilie Brassard for correcting my mistakes in the French version.  There are probably tons of mistakes in this English version as I’m not a native speaker but without Emily, the french version would have been unreadable.  I blame myself and my school teachers for the mistakes remaining in French version as I modified the text once she had gone trough it.

notes :

¹  – Écoguide d’Anticosti – Pascal Samson - 1990

² – Toutes les distances sont en Km approximatifs, mesuré de retour à Montréal avec le logiciel Mapsource de Garmin et les données Topo Canada également de Garmin.

³  –   http://www.menv.gouv.qc.ca/biodiversite/reserves/pointe_heath/res_04.htm